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Flawless Face

Achieving a flawless face doesn’t mean using lots of products and spending an hour in front of the mirror- in fact for me it is quite the opposite. When I think of a flawless face I think fresh, blemish free, youthful, and radiant! There is nothing that will ruin that image quicker than too many heavy products! To achieve a flawless base you will need some and sometimes all of the following:

  1. Moisturiser/Hydrating base
  2. Foundation/ BB Cream/ CC Cream/ Tinted Moisturiser
  3. Concealer
  4. Loose Translucent Powder

You may not need all of these all of the time, but sometimes when life is a little crazy they can all help when used correctly! The most important part of this though before I get into the product side of things is to wear what you are comfortable with- I believe you shouldn’t feel your make up when it’s on- when it is too heavy for you, you will feel it and it can feel uncomfortable or like you are wearing a mask. The following will teach you how to achieve a flawless base that is simple and quick to do but will have you feeling like a million dollars!

The Tools of the Trade:

You don’t need a lot of different brushes to achieve a flawless face but a couple of key tools will make all the difference. My top tools for a flawless face are:

AYU Buffer Foundation Brush, AYU Concealer Brush, AYU Duo Fibre Brush, AYU Mini Buffer Brush, A Powder Puff if you have oily skin)

1. Skincare

I always tell my clients that you can own the most expensive and ‘best’ make up in the world but if aren’t looking after your skin it won’t make a difference. Your skin needs to be right for your make up to be right- once the base is right, everything else will come together! You don’t need an elaborate or expensive routine but you do need a routine. You can read about my suggested routine here. Once your skin is ready that is half the battle!

2. Under Eye Concealer Versus Blemish Cover Concealer!

What is the difference? Many people make the mistake of thinking that one concealer/cover up product will do for under the eyes and blemish cover. Concealer was designed to be creamy and emollient that you could use under the eyes where the skin is thin and delicate and where it would easily slide and conceal dark circles or discolouration. Cover Up products are much thicker and drier products and were designed to hide spots, redness, veins and pigmentation. If you put a cover up product under your eye it will look heavy and generally accentuate what you are trying to hide! Concealers for under the eye often have light reflecting properties to brighten dark circles which would only highlight your blemishes!

3. Primer

If you have been watching my videos for a while then you will know that I am not a big fan of primers. I think there serve a purpose if you have a particular issue but if your skin is normal then I don’t think they are absolutely necessary.  If you have especially oily skin then I would definitely suggest using a primer to help your foundation last longer but if you don’t then I think you would be better off to replace a primer with a nice hydrating, illuminating base.

4. Foundation

A lot of people think that foundation should be used to cover blemishes and end up using way too much leaving it looking heavy and caked on- really the only purpose of a foundation is to even out the skin tone. I always suggest to my clients to spend time in choosing the right foundation for you- I think you need to get samples and wear it for at least three days before deciding whether to buy it or not- the reason I say three days is I think you should be able to wear it all day for a few days when you might be doing different things so you will get to see how it will wear and feel on your skin at the end of the day. I like a base that I can put on in the morning and don’t need to touch again until I am taking it back off. Always go to the shops armed with the little travel pots you can buy in pharmacies or penneys and ask for testers. When it comes to the tone of foundation always go for a neutral or yellow undertone- stay away from the pink undertones- these work great under the eyes to cover blue circles under the eyes but will leave the rest of your face with a chalky finish. The neutral tones suit all skin tones and the yellow based foundations will counteract any redness in the skin giving you an even base. The next thing you need to think about when it comes to foundation is the coverage- do you want it sheer, medium, or full- the lighter the consistency of the foundation generally the lighter the coverage, the heavier or thicker the consistency the fuller coverage. When it comes to finishes you can have a matte or dewy finish- matte is better for oiler skins and dewy for more mature, dehydrated or dry skins.

Tips on choosing your colour: Take three colours that are close to your own skin tone from the range you are looking at- apply a small stripe of each on your jawline- the shade that disappears is the one for you. You shouldn’t need to bring foundation onto your neck if it is the right shade for you(unless you have false tan on only up to your face)

5. Setting Powder Versus Finishing Powder 

Setting powder is like marmite for some people- they either love it or hate it- even so it is still a really important part of achieving a flawless face. You don’t need a lot of it but a little loose or compact powder will help keep your make up in place all day. It also won’t take away all your glow either- use it where it is needed- mostly in the T Zone to knock back shine and keep our natural oils from shining through during the day. With setting powders you want to be sure that they are really finely milled so that you won’t be left with a caked finish. I LOVE the Laura Mercier Loose Translucent powder for setting make up! Finishing Powders are a different ball game altogether, finishing powders are there to, well, finish the face! Generally finishing powders will have a sheen or slight highlight and are used to bring back the glow after setting the base- I know, it’s a lot to take in isn’t it?! These powders are really only for a glow and are best used on the tops of the cheekbones, down the centre of your nose, cupids bow and a little on the sides of the forehead- but word to the wise..go lightly with them!!

Flawless Face Make Up Application:

Foundation: When it comes to applying your foundation your brush will really make a difference. I only ever use our Buffer brush on myself and my clients- going between the full size and the Mini version. The reason I use this one is because it has a large dense synthetic brush head that is super soft so it glides make up on seamlessly. As the fibres are synthetic they don’t absorb product ensuring you get the most from your application. Start by pumping a small amount onto your brush and gently apply around your face- concentrate more on areas that are higher in colour, like around the nose or on the cheeks. Once you have a superficial coverage all over you should gently tap/buff the foundation in all over. This will ensure it becomes like your own skin and will make it last all day as it will be really ‘buffed’ into the skin! Avoid the eye area as we don’t want to overload that area with product, especially if you have dark circles or wrinkles- we will use over concealer on that area.

Concealer: Ah Concealer, the most underrated and neglected product by most women yet in my opinion the most important part of any make up! As I said earlier we have two types- one will be for under your eyes and the other for blemish cover so I will start with the under eyes! Your concealer for under the eyes need to be hydrating and have a light consistency as the skin around the eyes is super thin and tends to be drier than the rest of the face so any heavy duty concealers in this area will cake, crease and make you look more tired than when you started. If you have dark circles under your eyes but not a lot of puffiness I’d suggest a tone one shade lighter than your foundation and with a pink undertone to neutralise the blue- having a shade lighter will brighten the area too giving it a lift. If you have puffiness as well as dark circles you will need to use a concealer that is slightly darker to bring the look of the puffiness back- always remember what you brighten you bring forward and what you shade you bring back- if you have puffiness it can be helpful to roll an ice cube wrapped in tissue over the area before you do your make up to constrict the blood vessels in the area and take down any swelling.

How to apply your concealer: When applying concealer to cover dark circles I will always apply the product over the line where the dark circle ends- generally in a v shape going from the inner corner of the eye and ending on top of the cheekbone. The reason for applying it low down is to make sure that only the smallest amount of product ends up under the lower lash line- this will prevent any excess, creasing or any sort of heavy finish. I use our Concealer brush to pat the product in- never pull or drag the concealer in this area- the skin is delicate and you don’t want to damage it- I find the finish is so much smoother when it is patted it, it will make sure it lasts all day too! When you are patting it in start where you applied the concealer and work your way up- always pop a small bit on the lids too as these can be quite red or veiny. Once you are happy with how your concealer looks you need to set it with a little powder right after to keep it in place and prevent any creasing- you only need a pinch of powder here- just enough to take the stickiness away.

Blemish Cover Concealer: If you are using a concealer to cover blemishes make sure that it is one that is for troubled skin- the last thing you want is to use is something that will clog your skin up more! I love to use Vichy Dermablend foundations on blemishes rather than dry concealers as I feel you only need a dot of it and it blends really well back into your foundation. It also has a 16 hour wear so it super long lasting. Avoid dry type concealers on pimples as they can be too dry on top and end up making the blemish twice as obvious!

How to apply blemish cover concealer: When covering up a pimple or irritated area you want to be very gentle. For larger areas or to cover rosacea I will use our concealer brush but on spots I will usually use our pro blender brush– as I can be really precise with it. I never use flat synthetic brushes(or what you will know as traditional concealer brushes) on spots as I just find the too hard on the area and don’t feel they buff the concealer in as seamlessly as the pro blender. You want it to be invisible and the brush you use will determine the finish!

Powder:

Setting powder when used correctly is fantastic- it will lock in your make up base and make sure pesky natural oils don’t come beaming through and ruin the look of your flawless face! As the pro’s say: You set it, and forget it!!

How to apply setting powder: I am a big fan of using our Duo Fibre brush for setting powder. The reason being that the Duo Fibre will only ever apply what you need and will leave you with a gorgeous airbrush finish. Thanks to the two length fibres, the black fibres will apply the powder and the white fibres will airbrush it. Using a duo fibre brush to apply your powder will ensure that you knock back shine where you need to and will be left with a super smooth, and natural finish. When applying powder I always start with the T zone and then use whatever is left on the brush for the rest of the face. If you have oily skin you will need a good old fashioned powder puff to set your make up- it will be much more efficient than a powder brush and you will be able to really push it into the oily areas rather than glide over it with a brush!

In the next post I will cover bronzer, blusher and highlighter!

Hope you found this helpful and if you have any questions at all just let me know, Suzie x

 

 

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